Central Market and The Palace

After a short trip from the Killing Fields, we then headed to the Central Market of Phnom Penh. This is the central hub for shopping really good quality and cheap souvenir items, such as different items made up of the Cambodian silk, keychains, Cambodian style shorts/pants, magnets, etc. It is basically a large oval building which is divided into different sections that converge towards the center where pieces of jewelry and ornaments are on sale. They have sections for clothes, wood crafts, gadgets, bags and similar goods, etc. They also have an area for the wet and dry markets, which are adjacent to the food stalls and the sections where class A imitations of branded items are on sale.

Central Market

We had our lunch here at the food stalls where we spent around 4 USD for a hearty and scrumptious lunch consisting of grilled spicy squid, Pad Thai, and cucumber salad. It was a good lunch, and if you're not the picky and posh traveler, the market is a great place for exploring local dishes.

And then we bought some simple sweets afterwards, which were priced at 4 USD per pack.

Caramelized donuts

We then headed towards the front of the Royal Palace. As we were already running out of time, we were only able to capture photos outside the gates.

The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace Gates

We then headed back to Mad Monkey as we had our van transfer to Vietnam booked for the afternoon. Read about our experience in crossing the boarder between Cambodia and Vietnam here.

Waiting for the van transfer

Forms of Transportation from Cambodia to Vietnam

The historic port of the ancient town of Hoi An

Throughout the 9 day-journey from Cambodia to Vietnam, different forms of transportation were utilized.

Of course, the first form was our airplane ride from Manila to Siem Reap via CebuPacific Air. Then we rode a cab towards our inn in Siem Reap.

Quick Travel Essentials Shot at the airport

The new form of transportation we used was the Cambodian version of the tuktuk. It's like a large tricycle that can accommodate around 6 pax. The tuktuk is the main form of transportation in Siem Reap. Thus, it was what we used when transferring to and from the inn. It can be a really chilly ride during the wee hours in the morning. But as the sun rises, it's usually windy and a bit dusty.

The transfer from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh would have to be the roughest and longest 8 hour-public bus ride of my life. We left Siem Reap at around 1 in the afternoon, and it was really hot inside the bus, as if there were no air-conditioning units at all. I slept for less than half of the journey, and was wide awake during most of it because the bus moved very fast and would stop abruptly when dropping off or boarding passengers. The seat belts were broken, as well as the button for reclining the back rest. It was also very dusty because of the unpaved roads! You would most definitely want to cover your face during the journey. Come nighttime, the air-conditioning units seemed to have suddenly appeared out of nowhere because it was insanely and inhumanely cold for the rest of the ride. We had 2 bus stops along the way. However, in both stopovers, we didn't want to try our luck with the food they were serving. And mind you, the water closets are really dirty, wet and of the old Asian style, which is basically urinating or defecating by squatting on the floor.

When touring in Phnom Penh, tuktuk was still the primary form of transportation. Although, there were also a few taxis available.

Mekong Express Private Van interior

During our transfers to Ho Chi Minh from Phnom Penh, we boarded a Mekong Express private van with a maximum capacity of 11 pax. It was a really comfortable ride. Read more about it here at Crossing the Boarder.

Mai Linh Taxi

At Ho Chi Minh, taxis are the more common form, although people there prefer walking. Two of the taxi companies we tried were Mai Linh (with the iconic green and white body paint) and Vina (with the iconic yellow body paint) taxis, which were also the two most recommended taxi companies in Vietnam. Tourists are usually the ones who avail of the services of the modified rickshaw, in which Vietnam is known for. We tried riding one only once just so we could get to experience it. It's pretty hard to describe, so just refer to the photo below.

Modified Rickshaw - suggested for short distances

Traditional Rickshaw

From Ho Chi Minh, we took a flight to Hue, where taxis are still the common form of transportation, apart from tourist buses. Or you could rent a bicycle for a whole day for 15 USD.

Private Boat cruise along Perfume River

Groufie with the boat

In Hue, we tried the famous river cruise along the Perfume River. We hired a private boat to take us to different tourist destinations which can be accessed from the river for 150,000 VD. It's a must try for tourists who are willing to enjoy the slow cruise along the river than go through the city on board taxis.

Reunification Express Train - soft berth

We booked a nighttime schedule at the Reunification Express Train to Danang. A ticket for the soft berth costs 66,000 VD/pax. We took the 19.55 schedule, but was delayed for about an hour. The train was relatively old. The seats we were in had broken recliners and faulty seat belts. To make matters a little worse, the passengers behind us both had their feet resting on our arm rests, and they smelled. There was a small table in front of our seats, but it was dirty and had trash in it. It was kind of hot, too. Thankfully, I was still able to fall asleep the whole time. I did not dare use the loo. The journey took us roughly 3 hours, and we arrived at Danang before midnight.

Danang Station

At Danang, you can rent a bicycle to go around the city or just ride a cab/taxi. But we chose to walk around the city since we really wanted to take in the new environment and not always be at a rush to go places. We hired a cab we found just along Danang Beach to take us to the ancient town of Hoi An with a short stopover at Marble Mountains. We paid 117,500 VD/pax.

Rickshaw at Hoi An

Hoi An is known as the Walking and Cycling City. So, you just basically stroll around, or rent a bicycle for 25,000 VD/pax for 1 hour. Don't fret with the couple of zeros, because I promise you, it's all worth it!

Cycling around Hoi An

We then had our flight back to Ho Chi Minh City from Danang, and there we stayed for another night, then back to the Philippines.

The Tragedy of the Killing Fields

Among the most important things to do when visiting another country is learning about their history. Cambodia's history is pretty famous for the Genocide Era that occurred during the Khmer Rouge's reign.

Stupa containing the excavated bones arranged in levels

 What started as a small guerilla movement in 1970 turned into a massive army of around 700,000 men by 1975 under the leadership of Pol Pot. The Khmer Rouge brought about the civil war in Cambodia resulting to the death of almost 156,000 people with most of them being civilians. This movement believed in reconstructing Cambodia into a communist model of Mao's China by forcing populations of the country into laborers in a single federation of collective farms. And anyone who opposes and all those who were intellectuals or considered as educated were executed in killing fields scattered all over the country.

The Killing Tree - against which executioners beat children

The Magic Tree - where a speaker was hung to drown/mask the noise of the killings

So, naturally, a day was dedicated to learning more about this bloody history by visiting the most famous and one of the largest killing fields ever made in Cambodia, the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. Located 15-20 minutes from the city center of Phnom Penh, this was the site where prisoners from S-21 were killed, usually bludgeoned to death. Its mass graves contained around <9000 and="" bodies="" children.="" men="" of="" p="" women="">

Choeung Ek Mass Graves

We started our day early to avoid heavy traffic because of some road constructions going on. By riding a tuktuk, worth 14 USD for 4 pax, we were already at the killing fields at around 7am even before it opened. We ate a hearty breakfast at one of the carinderias there for around 2 USD/pax.

Cambodian Tapsilog

Then we availed of the audio tour for 6 USD/pax. If you don't want to shell some bucks, you could just go around the center with a handy dandy pamphlet, or you could bring your own handbook guide. But I suggest you avail the audio tour since it is relatively cheap, and to really have a feel of the killing fields because you can actually hear some of the testimonies of the survivors, their stories, and songs composed inspired by this bloody history of Cambodia. I had goosebumps during the whole audio tour! It started as just meaninglessly looking at large dug holes in a field, and then later while hearing the audio tour, turning out to be the mass graves, would definitely give you the creeps all over!

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center Audio Tour

At the end of the audio tour, you may visit the museum to look at some of the preserved artifacts, as well as watch a short clip summarizing the history of the genocide era of Cambodia. The site is open from 7.30 am to 5.30 pm. Suggested time of stay is around 2 hours.

Phnom Oudong

Day three at Cambodia was a laid-back kind of day. We woke up late and were not in a rush to do anything. Our only itinerary for the day was to take a tuktuk for a short trip to Oudong.

We had lunch first at a Japanese restaurant near Mad Monkey Hostel. To get to the street with lots of food choices, from the hostel, turn left, and then left again at the first street with the convenience store at the bend. Go straight for around 3 blocks. Then to your right, you'll spot a temple, look to your left and you'll see a street full of restaurants. It is parallel to the street of Mad Monkey Hostel. We spent around 3 USD/pax.

After lunch, we headed back to the hostel for the tuktuk that will take us to Oudong. The ride was priced at 10 USD/pax, and took around 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the traffic. During our time, there were lots of road constructions going on so that there was much heavier traffic. It was also very dusty, so you better bring a cover, such as a scarf or sarong, for your face. Don't forget, the roads there are literally rough and rocky.

Phnom Udong

Oudong or Udong, is a town located around 40 km north-western of Phnom Penh. It was once an ancient capital which was home to a succession of Khmer kings. It is famous for bearing a mountain stretch which was believed to have a shape similar to the Naga, the magical multi-headed serpent that can be seen guarding Buddha. Atop one of its hills is the Phnom Udong, the largest stupa of Cambodia. 

Stairs to Phnom Udong

At the base of the hill, one can see the royal tombs bearing the remains of 200 years worth of Khmer rulers. The way to the top of the hill comprises of 509 steps. The climb was pretty easy since the steps were not steep. The views were scenic, and there are certain stopovers along the path with benches and tables where I picture people sitting for meditation or even having picnics.

Outside the halls of the Buddhist temple

At the top is the Phnom Penh believed to have a buddha which faces north instead of the traditional direction of east, symbolizing the power and might of the ancient Khmer Kingdom. One can enjoy a full 360 degree view of the flat Cambodia countryside, with Buddhist temples in front and slightly to the left, below.

The Buddhist Temple below Phnom Udong

 After taking in the views, we headed down to explore the Buddhist temples below. It also has a reclining Buddha. We didn't get to see much, so we headed back to the hostel to freshen up for a dinner along the Riverside.

Karma Restaurant and Bar

 We took a tuktuk to take us to the riverside, which is lined by bars and restaurants. We had a sumptuous dinner at Karma Restaurant and Bar along Preah Sisowath Quay. There's a small cluster of shops there which offers happy pizza, if you know what I mean. We spent around 5 USD/pax, but we were all stuffed. We ordered all their house specialty. You should try their Amok, it was heavenly! The curry sauce paired with a spoonful of rice was enough to satiate your hunger.

Khmer Dinner

Following dinner was desserts at the Blue Pumpkin still located along the Quay. It is Cambodia's original French bakery and ice cream parlour. We had some ice cream and chilled at their second floor where you could lounge on their white comfy sofa beds with large pillows.

Chilling at the second floor

But of course, we're in Cambodia, so we bought one order of happy pizza from Happy Herb's Pizza. Happy pizza is supposed to be pizza garnished with cannabis. Yes, cannabis. It is commonly used by Cambodians for cooking as a therapeutic herb. Each order of regular pizza costs around 5 USD.

Happy Herb's Pizza

We then hired a tuktuk to go back to the hostel and retire for the night. A word of precaution: when traveling using tuktuks, be careful with your bags because there are lots of snatchers roaming around the city. Also, the streets aren't very busy and do not always have street lights, so better stick to the roads with many tourists or locals walking around than be adventurous and walk along an alley without a soul in it. Anyways, the locals, the staff of the hostel, and even the tuktuk drivers would usually warn you about the common modus operandi of snatchers and such, so better pay attention to them when they do.


Costs of the day:
- Tuktuk to/fro Oudong: 10 USD/pax
- Dinner: 5 USD/pax
- Pizza: 5 USD
- Mad Monkeys Hostel (2D2N): 17 USD for 4 pax (4.25 USD/pax)
Total: 24.25 USD