A Gastronomic Experience from Cambodia to Vietnam

A photo diary of the different food we've tasted and encountered during our Cambodia - Vietnam trip.

Pubstreet, Siem Reap, Cambodia

A different kind of BBQ night

Insects, anyone?

In Cambodia, it is common to see among their staple street food your crawling nightmares - insects! Usually, these insects are fried and include black beetles, huge hairy spiders, crispy locusts, and crickets among many others, served with dried herbs and or hot chili peppers.

Khmer Kebab

Khmer Burger and fries

Banana Mango, Hue, Vietnam

Vietnamese Bangus Belly

Vietnamese Spaghetti

Pho Tai, Bo Vien

Pho Tai, Bo Vien is a pho soup with sliced beef tender and meat balls, garnished with different herbs such as basil leaves, etc. It can also be served in a spicy soup.

Holiday Diamond Hotel, Hue, Vietnam

Breakfast All You Can

Fruits, bread, coffee

Hoi An, Vietnam

White Rose Dumplings

White Rose Dumplings were named as such by the French. This dish is famous among tourists because they are not just beautifully presented, but are very good to the taste buds! It is made from white rice flour, and stuffed with cooked shrimp meat. The translucent color of the flour blending with the color of the stuffing makes it look like a white rose petal.

Cau Lao

Cau Lao is a famous dry noodle dish in Hoi An. Basically, this dish is just made up of pork, noodles and green leafy vegetables. The unique taste of the dish was said to be due to the use of the water which is derived from an ancient Cham well found somewhere in this town.

Gelato ice Cream

BBQ ala-Hoi An

Hoi An BBQ

Inside the walking and cycling city of Hoi An, you can see food street vendors squatting along the sidewalks at the corners of streets or certain establishments. Indeed, the smell and the appearance of these BBQ sticks would make your mouth water. Fortunately, they do not disappoint because they are not just cheap but taste so good as well!

Central Market and The Palace

After a short trip from the Killing Fields, we then headed to the Central Market of Phnom Penh. This is the central hub for shopping really good quality and cheap souvenir items, such as different items made up of the Cambodian silk, keychains, Cambodian style shorts/pants, magnets, etc. It is basically a large oval building which is divided into different sections that converge towards the center where pieces of jewelry and ornaments are on sale. They have sections for clothes, wood crafts, gadgets, bags and similar goods, etc. They also have an area for the wet and dry markets, which are adjacent to the food stalls and the sections where class A imitations of branded items are on sale.

Central Market

We had our lunch here at the food stalls where we spent around 4 USD for a hearty and scrumptious lunch consisting of grilled spicy squid, Pad Thai, and cucumber salad. It was a good lunch, and if you're not the picky and posh traveler, the market is a great place for exploring local dishes.

And then we bought some simple sweets afterwards, which were priced at 4 USD per pack.

Caramelized donuts

We then headed towards the front of the Royal Palace. As we were already running out of time, we were only able to capture photos outside the gates.

The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace Gates

We then headed back to Mad Monkey as we had our van transfer to Vietnam booked for the afternoon. Read about our experience in crossing the boarder between Cambodia and Vietnam here.

Waiting for the van transfer

The Tragedy of the Killing Fields

Among the most important things to do when visiting another country is learning about their history. Cambodia's history is pretty famous for the Genocide Era that occurred during the Khmer Rouge's reign.

Stupa containing the excavated bones arranged in levels

 What started as a small guerilla movement in 1970 turned into a massive army of around 700,000 men by 1975 under the leadership of Pol Pot. The Khmer Rouge brought about the civil war in Cambodia resulting to the death of almost 156,000 people with most of them being civilians. This movement believed in reconstructing Cambodia into a communist model of Mao's China by forcing populations of the country into laborers in a single federation of collective farms. And anyone who opposes and all those who were intellectuals or considered as educated were executed in killing fields scattered all over the country.

The Killing Tree - against which executioners beat children

The Magic Tree - where a speaker was hung to drown/mask the noise of the killings

So, naturally, a day was dedicated to learning more about this bloody history by visiting the most famous and one of the largest killing fields ever made in Cambodia, the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. Located 15-20 minutes from the city center of Phnom Penh, this was the site where prisoners from S-21 were killed, usually bludgeoned to death. Its mass graves contained around <9000 and="" bodies="" children.="" men="" of="" p="" women="">

Choeung Ek Mass Graves

We started our day early to avoid heavy traffic because of some road constructions going on. By riding a tuktuk, worth 14 USD for 4 pax, we were already at the killing fields at around 7am even before it opened. We ate a hearty breakfast at one of the carinderias there for around 2 USD/pax.

Cambodian Tapsilog

Then we availed of the audio tour for 6 USD/pax. If you don't want to shell some bucks, you could just go around the center with a handy dandy pamphlet, or you could bring your own handbook guide. But I suggest you avail the audio tour since it is relatively cheap, and to really have a feel of the killing fields because you can actually hear some of the testimonies of the survivors, their stories, and songs composed inspired by this bloody history of Cambodia. I had goosebumps during the whole audio tour! It started as just meaninglessly looking at large dug holes in a field, and then later while hearing the audio tour, turning out to be the mass graves, would definitely give you the creeps all over!

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center Audio Tour

At the end of the audio tour, you may visit the museum to look at some of the preserved artifacts, as well as watch a short clip summarizing the history of the genocide era of Cambodia. The site is open from 7.30 am to 5.30 pm. Suggested time of stay is around 2 hours.

Phnom Oudong

Day three at Cambodia was a laid-back kind of day. We woke up late and were not in a rush to do anything. Our only itinerary for the day was to take a tuktuk for a short trip to Oudong.

We had lunch first at a Japanese restaurant near Mad Monkey Hostel. To get to the street with lots of food choices, from the hostel, turn left, and then left again at the first street with the convenience store at the bend. Go straight for around 3 blocks. Then to your right, you'll spot a temple, look to your left and you'll see a street full of restaurants. It is parallel to the street of Mad Monkey Hostel. We spent around 3 USD/pax.

After lunch, we headed back to the hostel for the tuktuk that will take us to Oudong. The ride was priced at 10 USD/pax, and took around 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the traffic. During our time, there were lots of road constructions going on so that there was much heavier traffic. It was also very dusty, so you better bring a cover, such as a scarf or sarong, for your face. Don't forget, the roads there are literally rough and rocky.

Phnom Udong

Oudong or Udong, is a town located around 40 km north-western of Phnom Penh. It was once an ancient capital which was home to a succession of Khmer kings. It is famous for bearing a mountain stretch which was believed to have a shape similar to the Naga, the magical multi-headed serpent that can be seen guarding Buddha. Atop one of its hills is the Phnom Udong, the largest stupa of Cambodia. 

Stairs to Phnom Udong

At the base of the hill, one can see the royal tombs bearing the remains of 200 years worth of Khmer rulers. The way to the top of the hill comprises of 509 steps. The climb was pretty easy since the steps were not steep. The views were scenic, and there are certain stopovers along the path with benches and tables where I picture people sitting for meditation or even having picnics.

Outside the halls of the Buddhist temple

At the top is the Phnom Penh believed to have a buddha which faces north instead of the traditional direction of east, symbolizing the power and might of the ancient Khmer Kingdom. One can enjoy a full 360 degree view of the flat Cambodia countryside, with Buddhist temples in front and slightly to the left, below.

The Buddhist Temple below Phnom Udong

 After taking in the views, we headed down to explore the Buddhist temples below. It also has a reclining Buddha. We didn't get to see much, so we headed back to the hostel to freshen up for a dinner along the Riverside.

Karma Restaurant and Bar

 We took a tuktuk to take us to the riverside, which is lined by bars and restaurants. We had a sumptuous dinner at Karma Restaurant and Bar along Preah Sisowath Quay. There's a small cluster of shops there which offers happy pizza, if you know what I mean. We spent around 5 USD/pax, but we were all stuffed. We ordered all their house specialty. You should try their Amok, it was heavenly! The curry sauce paired with a spoonful of rice was enough to satiate your hunger.

Khmer Dinner

Following dinner was desserts at the Blue Pumpkin still located along the Quay. It is Cambodia's original French bakery and ice cream parlour. We had some ice cream and chilled at their second floor where you could lounge on their white comfy sofa beds with large pillows.

Chilling at the second floor

But of course, we're in Cambodia, so we bought one order of happy pizza from Happy Herb's Pizza. Happy pizza is supposed to be pizza garnished with cannabis. Yes, cannabis. It is commonly used by Cambodians for cooking as a therapeutic herb. Each order of regular pizza costs around 5 USD.

Happy Herb's Pizza

We then hired a tuktuk to go back to the hostel and retire for the night. A word of precaution: when traveling using tuktuks, be careful with your bags because there are lots of snatchers roaming around the city. Also, the streets aren't very busy and do not always have street lights, so better stick to the roads with many tourists or locals walking around than be adventurous and walk along an alley without a soul in it. Anyways, the locals, the staff of the hostel, and even the tuktuk drivers would usually warn you about the common modus operandi of snatchers and such, so better pay attention to them when they do.


Costs of the day:
- Tuktuk to/fro Oudong: 10 USD/pax
- Dinner: 5 USD/pax
- Pizza: 5 USD
- Mad Monkeys Hostel (2D2N): 17 USD for 4 pax (4.25 USD/pax)
Total: 24.25 USD

Majestic Angkor

Visiting the Angkor Archaeological park would have to be the greatest highlight of any Cambodia trip. If only I was given more time, I would have explored it for three whole days rather than the fast paced 1-day tour that I did. The whole complex, which is around 400 square km, represents the 9th to 15th century Khmer Empire. It boasts of temples, basins, dykes, reservoirs, canals, and communication routes. Formerly the center of the Khmer Kingdom, it was the major site for Khmer's cultural, religious and symbolic values.

ANGKOR WAT

No-Filter Angkor Wat Sunrise

To best experience this site, visit it during sunrise and sunset. During my visit, I was pretty puzzled as to why people would go to any length just to wake up in the wee hours of the morning, brave the chill of the dawn coupled with darkness, and position themselves in front of the lake on the left side of the Angkor Wat temple. I thought to myself, "It's just sunrise. What's the big deal?" And then, as I was gathered in front of the temple together with hundreds of spectators, and as the sun's rays began to shine on the temple, a magnificent chill overcame me and went through my spine making the strands of hair on my back stand up... It was one of the most majestic sights I have ever witnessed in my whole life. The sunrise event takes place for more or less 15 minutes. As the sun ascends, the view changes; everything changes, the colors, the shadows, the skyline, they made me truly awestruck.

What happens BTS

After the sunrise, we then hired a guide to tour us around the Angkor Wat temple. There are many tourist guides available roaming around the complex, so don't fret. Also, they charge the same rate that's why you don't have to worry about being ripped off. They are really friendly, and good in explaining the complex, so better pay attention. Mainly, the walls tell stories of Hindu mythology. Scenes were carved from Mahabharata and Ramayana. The temple is adorned with sculptures, which are mostly that of female divinities called "apsaras" created for the entertainment of the Hindu gods. These divinities were often depicted in dance poses and were seen wearing pointed crowns. If you fancy having a tour on your own without shelling some bucks, search and download audio tour guides from the internet and listen to them as you go along. Or bring a trusted traveling book with you.

The Inner walls of Angkor Wat

The Angkor Wat complex was designed to replicate Mount Meru, home of the Hindu God, Vishnu. Bearing five peaks surrounded by mountain ranges and oceans, Mount Meru was architecturally represented by Angkor Wat by also having 5 peaks surrounded by outer walls and moats. The monuments rise in tiers towards the center tower, with higher towers at every corner of the concentric squares. It was thought that, since the main central tower of Angkor Wat was made facing the West, symbolizing death in SEA, the Angkor Wat was built by Suryavarman II to serve as both his tomb and as a temple.

Angkor Wat view from behind

As part of the "small tour package" that we availed at our inn, we then proceeded to Bayon Temple where we decided to eat our simple breakfast consisting of 2 slices of baguette, 2 slices of bananas, and 2 packets of butter and strawberry jam. It was a truly simple and humble breakfast, if I might say.

BAYON TEMPLE

Bayon Facade

The Bayon Temple is basically "massive stones lying on the ground." Before you are able to enter the temple, there are guards to whom you have to present your Angkor Wat pass. This temple, situated at the center of Angkor Thom, is unique in such a way because it contains giant stones making up faces bearing different kinds of smiles.

Bayon Temple Panorama

Walk along towards the top and you'll see the beautiful collage of smiling stone faces. The view kind of makes you feel like you're in Machu Picchu.

BAPHUON TEMPLE

Just walk across the Bayon temple, and to your left, you'll see a towering temple, the Baphuon Temple. Before being able to access the temple, you'll have to walk through a long bridge-like structure towards it. Oh, I can only imagine it during its hay day! When the people of Khmer walked through it to go to their temple.

View from the top of Baphuon Temple

This temple is quite striking because just from below, you'll see an altar-looking structure at its top. You have to climb all the way through very steep sets of stairs to the top to see yet another set of magnificent views! Believe me, climbing those steep steps is worth it. The dilemma would be going down through another set of steep stairs, but no worries, it's actually more fun than scary.

On the way down

On the way to Ta Prohm, we had a quick stop at a restaurant in front of Angkor Wat for lunch, which was priced at around 6 USD per pax.

TA PROHM

Wall/Temple-Eating Trees at Tomb Raider

 More popularly know as Tomb Raider because it was used as a shooting spot for Lara Croft's Tomb Raider movie series, Ta Prohm's jungle-eating-temple theme makes it truly unique from the other temple sites. You'll see enormous tree trunks eating out (or in) temples.

Ta Prohm Panorama

We were done exploring all of the aforementioned temples at around 2 in the afternoon. I swear, although the views are Angkor-edible, you'd really feel like you've seen one too many stones and temples for one day. So, we opted to go back to the inn to freshen up before being picked up by a van for our bus transfer to Phnom Penh that same night.


Costs of the day:
- Angkor Wat 1-day pass: 20 USD (paid at the entrance to Angkor complex)
- Angkor Wat small tour: 10 USD for 4 pax (3.75 USD/pax) (arranged at the inn)
- Angkor Wat tour guide: 16 USD for 4 pax (4 USD/pax) (arranged on the spot inside Angkor Wat)
- Lunch (for sharing): 23 USD for 4 pax (6 USD/pax)
- Bus to Phnom Penh: 8 USD/pax
Total: 41.75 USD/pax

Exploring Kampuchea

DAY 1: Siem Reap Night Life

Siem Reap International Airport

Our flight for Siem Reap was actually one miracle. It's because it nearly got cancelled because of the arrival of Pope Francis in the Philippines; there were too many delayed flights because the terminals were trying to accommodate the rescheduled flights cancelled due to the Pontiff's arrival. So, yeah, you could say it was a miracle this flight didn't get delayed or such.

Pubstreet Street Food

Insects and Meat

We touched down at Siem Reap International Airport at around 930 pm. My first impression of a country sometimes depend on the things I see through the windows of the plane. And compared to the usual scenic views one might see when arriving at night at a city, what I saw was darkness. Sure, there were some areas with flicks of lights, but they don't even equate to the lights of one barangay in the Philippines. Siem Reap, thus, gave me the idea that I was in a remote province of the Philippines. And this was actually confirmed when we took a 13-dollar taxi for 6 pax towards our hostel. The airport taxi has a kiosk at the exit of arrivals area and the staff are fluent in the English language and are very friendly as well. To save some bucks, our group of four joined a pair to rent a big taxi, instead of renting a small taxi worth 10 dollars.

Khmer Kebab

Khmer Burger and fries

Almost all of the establishments were already closed. And there isn't much activity going on even at the airport. We booked one night at Tanei Guesthouse for only 10 USD/person/night. This charming guesthouse is just walking distance from the nightlife of Siem Reap, both night markets and restaurants/bars. So after settling down, we walked towards Pubstreet for dinner and to have a glimpse of their night life.

Dinner Place

After dinner, we walked around to explore Pubstreet, but during this time, almost all of the establishments were starting to close. There were some bars with rooftop seating with live band performing throughout the night, while other restaurants were good for just chill dinner. The streets are lined with kiosks selling fruit shakes, or some street food. There isn't much to do anymore but to go back to the hotel and retire for the night.

Siem Reap Night Market

Costs of the day:

> Taxi for 6 pax (2 stops): 13 USD/6 = ~2 USD

> Dinner: 8 USD/2 = ~4 USD

> Guesthouse (1D1N): 40 USD/4 = 10 USD

Total = ~16 USD