48 Hours in Florence - Day 1

BeautiFlorence

Rome and Florence are two cities that are often clumped up in a single trip because of the ease of commute between the two.

We pre-booked two return tickets to/fro Roma Termini station via Trenitalia, which was about 50 pounds pp. It could have been cheaper if we were able to buy the super economy tickets.

Travel tip: For inter-region train tickets (e.g. Rome - Florence), it is strongly advised to book in advance, otherwise you will have to pay the full ticket price for that day which will be very expensive compared to tickets bought weeks in advance. For train tickets within the region, there is no price difference between tickets bought ahead and on the day itself.

Checking in to the train: either you print out your tickets or show the bar code from your smart device. Be at the station at least half an hour before your time of departure. The travel time took about 1.5 hours along scenic routes and on board a comfortable train with electric sockets and free wifi. We arrived at Santa Maria Novella station at around lunch time.

The station is very close to our hotel, i.e. about 5 minutes on foot, and so we checked in first at Hotel Balcony and then headed out to explore the charming Florence.

Lunch at Mercato Centrale

Also known as Mercato di San Lorenzo, Mercato Centrale is located between via dell'Ariento, via Sant'Antonino, via Panicale and Piazza del Mercato Centrale. It is located in the first floor of the covered market in the San Lorenzo neighbourhood. On the ground floor are a myriad of shops selling ingredients for Tuscan cuisine. In the first floor are loads of seating areas and a whole range of shops selling excellent but budget-friendly food with generous servings. It's a fun space for foodies to explore Tuscan food. There are also toilet facilities available. Recommended length of stay: minimum of 1 hour

Mercato Centrale

Opinion: the best place for budget eats is Mercato Centrale - you can buy food for take away and eat it anywhere while enjoying the charming streets of Florence.

Carbonara and pizza 

Duomo - Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral

Duomo Last Judgment frescoes

Clad in white, red and green marble, this majestic cathedral used to be the largest church in Europe when it was completed in the 15th century. Now, the cathedral comes 3rd after St. Peter's Basilica and St. Paul's. The cathedral is dedicated to Santa Maria del Fiore, the Virgin of the Flower, a clear allusion to the lily which is the symbol of the city of Florence.

Duomo side door

Things to note about the cathedral complex:

- The clock located on top of the entrance: designed by Paolo Uccello in 1433 in accordance to the ora italica, where the 24th hour of the day ended at sunset - still works

- The Last Judgment frescoes on the dome: designed by Giorgio Vasari; climb 463 steps to view this amazing work of art up close

- Climbing the Filippo Brunelleschi's Cupola: egg-shaped dome constructed without scaffolding; climb up to view the frescoes up close and enjoy impressive views of the city

- Giotto's Bell Tower: most beautiful campanile in Italy; climb around 400 steps for breathtaking city views

- Baptristry: made of white Carrara and green Prato marble; marvel at the South Door, North Door and the East Door, which Michelangelo called the Gates of Paradise

Santa Maria del Fiore

Recommended length of stay: ~2 hours (depends on the queue)

Piazza Della Repubblica

This piazza is Florence's city centre since the Roman times. It is the original site of the Roman Forum. One of the largest squares of the city, it also served as an "old market," or known as Mercato Vecchio. Today, it usually is full of street artists, especially during warmer months. Length of stay: 30 minutes

Piazza Della Repubblica

Piazza Della Signoria

Palazzo Vecchio

The centre of politics, this is where the Palazzo Vecchio, Florence's town hall, is located. Facing the P. Vecchio, on the right is an arcaded loggia, Loggia dei Lanzi, named after the German mercenaries who stood guard over the palace. Today it provides tired tourists a covered seating while marvelling at ancient Renaissance statues. Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

Loggia dei Lanzi

Gelato in Piazza Santa Croce

Gelato in Piazza Santa Croce

Piazza where the Basilica of Santa Croce is located, which is where Michelangelo is buried together with Rossini, Macchiavelli, and Galileo Galilei. Recommended length of stay: 30 minutes

Sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo

If you fancy a bit of a scenic walk with a reward after, from Ponte Alle Grazie, turn left, walk along the river bank and up through Piazza Poggi to Piazalle Michelangelo for majestic panoramic views of Florence.

Piazza Poggi

The square is especially more popular during sunrise and sunset as it offers stunning views of the city skyline. You can also ride either bus 12 or 13 to get here, but I highly recommend walking instead. Recommended length of stay: ~1 hour

Piazzale Michelangelo

Ponte Vecchio

Benvenuto Cellini

The most famous bridge in Florence, Ponte Vecchio or "Old Bridge" used to be the only bridge across the Arno until 1218. It was originally lined with shops by fishmongers, butchers, and tanners, which caused industrial waste, and consequently, a pretty rank stench on the area. That's why it was later decreed that only shops by goldsmiths and jewellers can be put up to improve the wellbeing of all.  One of the most famous goldsmiths, Benvenuto Cellini, is honoured with a bust in the middle of the bridge. The main purpose of the construction of the bridge was to connect the Uffizi to the Palazzo Pitti when the Medici family moved to the latter from Palazzo Vecchio. Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

Aperitivo at Signorvino

Signorvino

The best place for excellent aperitivo with a nice view of Ponte Vecchio is Signorvino. The place is dedicated to providing excellent tasting Italian wine combined with simply cooked but equally tasty and quality meals served in a chill and relaxing venue. The prices are relatively budget-friendly too. Recommended length of stay: ~1 hour

Opinion: buy a bottle of wine (very budget friendly but excellent quality!) and enjoy it while people-watching somewhere in the city (and maybe while chowing down food from Mercato Centrale too).

Dinner at Del Fagioli

Florentine Steak at Del Fagioli

For one of the best tasting Florentine steaks, head out to Del Fagioli at Corso dei Tintori. A traditional trattoria with an open-view kitchen offering a wide range of freshly cooked Tuscan meat dishes and grills. The place is usually packed with both locals and tourists alike because of the great food that they serve - definitely worth every euro. Recommended length of stay: ~1 hour

Duomo at night

Expenses:
- Lunch (2 pax): 19 euros -> 9.50 euros
- Gelato: 4 euros
- Aperitivo (2 pax): 25 euros -> 12.50 euros
- Dinner (2 pax): 80 euros -> 40 euros

Total: 66 euros

48 hours in Rome - Day 2

HOLY ROMA!

After having breakfast at the hotel between 7 and 8 AM, we set off to explore the smallest state in the world, Vatican City, and other holy sites outside the walled city. 

Travel tip: If you're planning to visit the Vatican Museums, I suggest you go as early as possible, as the queues tend to be a mile long even as early as 8 AM, most especially during the last Sunday of the month when entrance is free of charge but the opening times are much shorter. During our visit, we spent an hour and a half just waiting in line to get inside and thus, was only able to explore it for about an hour and so before we headed to St. Peter's Square to witness the Pope for the Sunday Angelus, and his 15-20 minute public speech. We were already in line at around a little past 8 AM as our hotel was just about 10-15 minutes away from the walled city.

VATICAN MUSEUMS - SISTINE CHAPEL

Musei Vaticani

Inside the Vatican Museums, there are different routes you can take depending on the time frame that you have - there are shorter and longer routes that you can follow. Since we were already pressed with time, we had to follow the shorter stay route.

Priority one was obviously to marvel at the stiff-neck inducing beauty of Michelangelo's frescoes on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

It is forbidden to take photos of the chapel as a form of respect. Although during my visit, there were still some folks who would risk being caught by the guards just to take those photos. If ever you do try to take some snaps inside and got caught, apart from the shame and the judgmental looks people would throw your way, they would ask for you to delete the photo/s while they watch - and believe me, it's quite an embarrassing scene. So if I were you, just quietly admire the chapel as normal law-abiding people do.

Named after the Pope Sixtus IV, whose name in Italian is "Sisto," the Capella Sistina served then and now as the pope's private chapel. A plain chapel from the outside, all of its entrances are internal and it has no grand facade. Michelangelo's frescoes tell of the 2 stories: one side told of the story of Moses, while the other that of Christ. Learn more about The Sistine Chapel by clicking on the link.

After about half an hour and a stiff neck, we then headed back to the museums to quickly pass by some religious articles and works of art.

Then went straight back out of the walled city, and into the already massive crowds gathered inside St. Peter's Square to witness the Pope for the Sunday Angelus, and his short public speech from one of the windows of the Papal residence.

ST. PETER'S SQUARE

St. Peter's Square

Piazza San Pietro is located in front of the world's greatest basilica, that of St. Peter's. It represents the core of the Holy City. At the center of the square is an Egyptian obelisk without hieroglyphs, brought to Rome in 37 B.C. Bernini took over the construction of the square's colonnade composed of 284 columns and 88 pillars in a quadruple row, which for him, symbolises the 'gathering of Christianity.'

St. Peter's Square

Walking from Via Della Conciliazione up to the square, the impressive landmark ultimately leads up to an equally impressive basilica, St. Peter's. Length of stay: minimum of 30 minutes

ST. PETER'S BASILICA

With a whopping 15160 meters of internal area, making it the largest basilica in the world, St. Peter's Basilica is one of the holiest sites of Roman Catholicism. It is home to about a hundred tombs, including those of Roman Emperor Otto II and Swedish Queen Christina.

A. CUPOLA

View from inside the cupola

St. Peter's Basilica has 2 entrance queues: one for the basilica, and one for the dome. The magnificent 41-meter high dome was designed by none other than the great Bernini. Entrance to the dome is worth 8 euros if you're taking the elevator to the roof level (you will pay less if you take the stairs) - but the queue was agonisingly long and slow-moving as there's only one cashier and you can only pay by cash.

Roof level

Climbing the Cupola

There are a total of 551 steps to the Cupola. But if you take the elevator to the roof level, you deduct about 231 steps. However, the remaining 320 steps are not to be belittled! There were parts that are slippery or steps that were strikingly steep, and there were also some parts when you can only hold on to a rope to climb up. So it is not an undertaking for those with cardiac or other health problems. Mind you though, in addition to the views as you look down the interiors of the basilica, the 360 views outside and on the top of the dome are absolutely worth the climb.

St. Peter's Square from the top of Cupola

We waited for about an hour in line to get inside, and then add about 30 minutes to climb the stairs to the top. It was quite an exciting experience for the fit and able. Length of stay: about 2 hours.

B. BASILICA

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

After descending from the dome, we then headed to explore the magnificent interiors of the basilica.

Take note that since this is a place of worship, there are strict rules being implemented. Among the most important 'need-to-know' would be the dress code; you may be turned away or escorted out if you are not dressed appropriately. To know more about them: click here.

Inside, I couldn't even decide where to begin. It was one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen in my life - I had goosebumps upon entering this massive structure.

• The La Pieta (Italian for 'pity'): another one of Michelangelo's masterpieces, this is probably one of the most famous sculptures of a religious subject; it depicts the grief-stricken Virgin Mary with the dead Christ on her arms
• St. Peter's Treasury: contains a wide collection of valuable articles, usually gifts of kings or princes; admission fee applies
• Vatican Grottoes: house the tombs of popes, with Pope John Paul II being among the most famously visited ones; free entry

Length of stay: minimum of 1 hour

CHANCE CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH THE POPE

After perusing the inside of the basilica, it was time to head out for lunch. We were already starving by this time as it was almost 3 in the afternoon. While walking towards McDonald's along Borgo Pio, there was a small crowd gathered outside the Porta Sant'Anna gate. We asked some of the onlookers, and they were not sure as well whether people have gathered to have a chance to glimpse at the Pope up close. But since there were Swiss guards stationed outside the cordoned gate, it was not hard to believe that there is a huge possibility that we may see Pope Francis.

And true enough, after about 10 minutes of waiting, the Pope came out of Chiesa parrochialle di Sant'Anna dei Palafrenieri and entered a humble Ford car, dropped down the window and waved as he passed us dumbfounded and shocked spectators on the way to God knows where.

It was one of the most spine-chilling 30 seconds of my life that left me a bit tearful. I could not believe how close I was to the Pope! It was a priceless once in lifetime moment.

Castel Sant'Angelo

We then headed towards Castel Sant'Angelo, but opted not to enter anymore as at that time, it was already approaching dusk, and we wanted to catch the golden hour at Gianicolo. So we took a bus towards the hill.

GIANICOLO/JANICULUM

At Gianicolo

The Gianicolo is known to give among the most stunning views of Rome, especially at sunset. Aside from the views of Rome, at the top of the hill is the gigantic statue of the great bearded hero, Guiseppe Garibaldi on horseback. Recommended length of stay: 30 minutes

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

We then took the bus headed down to Trastevere to visit the Basilica di Santa Maria.

This basilica is said to be the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in Rome. Inside, marvel at the 12-century mosaics, and in the apse, look out for Christ and the Holy Mother flanked by various saints with Pope Innocent II on the far left holding a model of the church.

According to legends, the church was built was on the spot where a fountain of oil miraculously sprang from the ground. Recommended length of stay: about 30 minutes

DINNER: TRATTORIA IL DUCA

Fried Artichokes

Trastevere is a good place to find a place to eat for dinner. So we explored its alleyways to find somewhere to dine, and we chose Il Duca.

Lasagna and steak

Tucked along Vicolo de' Cinque, Il Duca offers not just an expanse of comfortable dining atmosphere, but also an extensive menu with great-tasting food. The servings were generous and the prices are relatively affordable. We ordered steak, lasagna, and artichokes, and some drinks. And all three of them were heavenly! I was especially surprised with how much I loved the simply-cooked artichokes (which were in season when we visited). The staff were incredibly friendly and very accommodating. We spent 22 euros pp - I was stuffed to the brim, and we even had take-away. So I would say I will definitely go back to try out their other dishes.

VENDITA LIBRI/CHOCOLATE E VINO

Aperitivo

We capped the day with aperitivo at a nearby cocktail bar also along the same street, Vendita Libri/ Chocolate e Vino. It had a lively and chilled atmosphere inside and it was packed, which was a good sign. For good-tasting aperitivo, we spent about 13 euros pp. I recommend this as a good place to end your day. Try out their chocolate shots!

We then took the bus to head back to our hotel after crossing the Ponte Sisto, and retired for the night. 

48 Hours in Rome - Day 1

PEBREROME

Our flight landed at Fiumicino Airport at around 10 in the morning via EasyJet. We initially planned to take the Leonardo Express train to transfer to the city center. However, just in front of the entrance to the platforms, there were many travel agencies that offer much cheaper transfers: a 15 euro pp private van transfer straight to the hotel. This was much more practical than taking the 14 euro pp Leonardo Express train to Rome Termini station and then taking a 1.50 euro pp bus, be dropped off somewhere near the hotel and then walking all the way with the luggage to the hotel. Time is gold, so we chose the offer and the transfer took around 45 minutes as compared to the Leonardo Express train that takes 32 minutes to get to Rome Termini only.

Travel tip: Buy your travel tickets in the airport. The travel tickets can be valid for 24 hours, 48 hours, 72 hours or 7 days - depending on how long you're staying in Rome. The ticket is valid for unlimited use of city buses, trams, metro, and some rail services. It is much cheaper and more practical to buy a travel ticket like this rather than buying individual tickets every time you're going to use public transport. For more information, visit Rome Transpo.

We arrived at Hotel Colors before lunch. Checked in, settled our stuff in the room, freshened up, and then headed to explore.

THE SPANISH STEPS

Piazza di Spagna

This famous steep set of ~135 steps stretches between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinita dei Monti. At the foot of the steps is the Fountain of the Old Boat, one of Bernini's works, and at the top is the Trinita dei Monti church. Since it is located at Piazza di Spagna where the Spanish Embassy can be found, it's name became such. Although the steps look perfect to sit on and munch a nice sandwich, apparently, it is not allowed to eat there in order to maintain its cleanliness. So better just bring a book and perhaps a nice drink? Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

FONTANA DI TREVI

Trevi Fountain at day

The largest Baroque fountain in the city, and the most beautiful of its kind in the world, Trevi Fountain is one must-see spot in Rome. Originally being an ancient Roman aqueduct termination, the fountain was duly named as such because it was built at the junction of three roads (tre vie). There is a well-known ancient tradition of tossing a coin into the fountain once to ensure that you will return to Rome. But other people also believe that if you throw another coin a 2nd time, true love will find you. To learn more fun facts about the fountain, visit Walks of Italy. Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

LUNCH: GINGER (Sapori e Salute)

Ginger lunch: authentic Italian carbonara has no cream!

Known to both locals and tourists, this restaurant boasts of healthy and deliciously satisfying food. The menu is veggie friendly (i.e. most dishes are plant-based), and you can tell from the queue outside how this place is a must-try for good-tasting local cuisine. The service was prompt, and staff are very friendly. The price ranges from budget to mid-range, depending on what you order, and they match the servings of the food. Try out their wide variety of interesting smoothies and other healthy refreshments. Length of stay: about an hour; meal pp: ~20 euros

PANTHEON

Pantheon

Formerly a Roman temple to "honour all Gods" (hence the name), the Pantheon now serves as a church. Marvel at its giant dome with a hole at the top (i.e. the oculus or the eye of the Pantheon). The dome is known as the largest unsupported dome in the world. The Pantheon houses the tombs of the artist Raphael and several Italian kings and poets. Visit Pantheon Facts to learn more. Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

PIAZZA NAVONA

One of the largest piazzas in Rome, this is where the grandstands of the Stadium of Domitian once stood. At piazza, you will find Bernini's La Fontana dei Fiumi in the center, 2 other fountains, and the baroque church of Sant'Agnese in Agone. La Fontana dei Fiumi is the centrepiece and is also the most photographed item in the square. In the center of the fountain is a Roman obelisk surrounded by 4 great rivers, Ganges, Nile, Danube and Plate, represented by four giants and the water fountain itself. The piazza is a good place to sit down and enjoy a great cup of coffee and sandwich. Recommended length of stay: at least 30 minutes

PIAZZA VENEZIA

Piazza Venezia

Located almost at Rome's geometric center, Piazza Venezia is a treasure trove of tourist landmarks. Named after Cardinal Venezia, in the piazza, you can find the Palazzo Venezia (Cardinal Venezia's palace), Palazzetto Venezia, Assicurazioni Generali (an insurance company building), Il Vittoriano (monument of Victor Emanuel II), Palazzo Bonaparte (home of Napoleon's mother), Palazzo delle Aste, and the churches of San Marco and Santa Maria di Loreto. Recommended length of stay in the piazza: ~15 minutes, then you can visit each landmark as preferred.

VIA DEI FORI IMPERIALI

Foro Traiano

Stretching from Piazza Venezia, this street would lead straight into the Colosseo. But along the way, be taken away by the beauty of ancient Roman architecture. Coming from Piazza Venezia, on the left side, you can spot Foro Traiano, and Foro Augustus, while on the right side, there is the Foro di Cesare, Roman Forum, and the Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana.

COLOSSEO

Colosseo

Originally known as the Flavian Amphitheater, the Colosseum can seat about 70,000 spectators. Its main purpose was for Emperor Vespesian to gain popularity by staging deadly combats between gladiators, as well as wild animal fights for public viewing. Its bloody history came to a conclusion when Christianity put an end to the gladiatorial fights as they were against the sanctity of life. Regular tickets (Colosseum+Roman Forum+Palatino) are priced at 12 euros pp. Recommended length of stay: at least an hour

ROMAN FORUM

Foro Roma

The Roman Forum was the centre of business and commerce, and is the city's communal hearth. It used to be home to the city's most important buildings, and spaces for both religious and judiciary activities. Recommended length of stay: at least 45 minutes

BASILICA PAPALE DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE

Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore

This basilica is one of four Patriarchal Basilicas of Rome. It has a very interesting and rich history. It houses the Sistine and Paoline chapels on the right and the Cesi and Sforza chapels on the left. Click here to learn more about the Basilica. Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

Just a few minutes worth of walk from the Basilica is the Piazza della Repubblica. It was built as part of Rome's post-unification makeover. It follows the lines of semicircular exedra (benched Portico) of Diocletian's baths complex, and was originally known as Piazza Esedra. It features 4 nude water nymphs surrounding the central figure, Glaucus, wrestling a fish. Recommended length of stay: ~15 minutes

TREVI FOUNTAIN AT NIGHT

Trevi Fountain at night

We then decided to head back to this beautiful fountain to see how it looks at nighttime, and it did not disappoint. It was even more magical at night, and was certainly a delightful thing to admire. Be sure to see it both at daytime and at nighttime. Recommended length of stay: ~30 minutes

DINNER: PANE E SALAME

Pane e Salame dinner: meat and cheese board

A sandwich shop, Pane e Salame is known for their quality sandwiches, and meat and cheese boards. The servings are generous for the price, and the taste does not disappoint. Staff and service are 5/5. I highly recommend this place for both lunch and dinner, and aperitif - this is evidenced by the queue outside. Length of stay: minimum of an hour; meal pp: minimum of 15 euros